I first interviewed Coral Remiro in 2024. At that time, she was the farm manager at Earth Stewards, an urban farm in Kirikiriroa, Hamilton. We had a fascinating chat about the successful polycropping method she’d implemented on the farm.
What is polycropping?
Polycropping is a technique that involves growing different crops together in a garden bed instead of using the more traditional monocropping planting method. It can be used in a small garden or larger growing system.
Spinach, cabbages, radish and coriander growing in a polycropping system
What are the advantages of polycropping?
Coral has found that one of the advantages of polycropping is an increase in the number of plants that can be grown in a small space. This has created more space to plant cover crops. She says, this has been a game changer as the cover crops reduce weed pressure, add a source of nitrogen, and provide more compost material.
Polycroppingalso increases biological diversity in and above the soil, directly helping to maintain a balanced system. Different insects, microorganisms, and other animals are attracted to the different habitats provided by different plants in close proximity.
Is polycropping complicated?
Polycropping is complicated until, as Coral says, “you can get your head around it.” She does not spend time these days considering companion planting so much as thinking about how plants grow. She explains that there are some key concepts to consider when grouping plants together including:
how much space is available around a plant as it grows
how long it takes for each type of plant to reach harvest size
light requirements for each plant
how different plants grow – vertically or horizontally
if the plants are root or leaf crops.
Hero plants
In her planning Coral thinks about how to create guilds – groupings of plants that support each other. She has found the best way to plan her garden is to organise plants into groups based on how long it takes for them to grow to harvest size:short, medium, and long-term. Plants like tomatoes and brassica take the longest to grow and she says these are the ‘hero’ plants. She suggests using these plants as a base to work around and then planting faster growing and smaller plants around these, for example, coriander and radish.
Kale, lettuce and coriander
The importance of record keeping
Like all gardeners and growers, Coral has learnt some lessons the hard way. For example, she planted lots of beetroot plants around other plants without considering how much light they needed. She says, one of the keys to success in polycropping is observation and recording what works well and what doesn’t. I would also suggest taking a photo before you forget – seasons pass fast!
Brassica surrounded by a range of plants including lettuce and coriander
What I really appreciated when talking to Coral was her openness to trying new things in the garden. I also valued her approach to creating diversity. It’s always good to remember that in a garden, diversity can mitigate risk.
Visiting Earth Stewarts Urban Farm https://earthstewards.nz/ and chatting to Coral was an inspiration.
Crop rotation is simply organising plants into different plant families and rotating the plantings over time, or basically not planting the same annual crops in the same place each year.
Crop rotation does require some planning. If detailed planning is your thing, you can create a long-term rotation design with a detailed plan (probably more for a market gardener), or you can also keep it simple and incorporate at least some rotation around the garden.
Sprouting purple broccoli flourishing after a crop of potatoes
Healthier Soil, Better Harvests
Different plants require different nutrient levels, so rotating your crops can help reduce the number of inputs you may need to use. A crop that is a heavy feeder can be followed by something that requires less nutrients, and a crop with deep roots followed by a shallow rooted crop.
Another advantage of crop rotation is reducing the potential for soil-borne disease. This is because plants in the same family are more likely to suffer from the same issues. For example, planting brassicas (e.g., kale, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower) in the same plot every year increases the risk of club-root, because the fungal disease’s spores can persist in the soil. It’s a good idea to leave a gap of at least three or four years between plantings.
Rotating crops can help reduce insect damage by preventing a build-up of damaging insects in a crop year after year.
Another advantage is different crops work on the soil in unique way, for example, deep rooting crops can improve the soil structure.
Different plant groupings
It is useful to have some understanding of the different families of plants if you want to use crop rotation. I also find it useful to keep seeds stored by the different groups in containers.
Leeks, onions, spring onions, garlic (Allium family)
Courgette, melons (Cucurbitaceae)
Carrots, celeriac, celery (Umbellifeae)
Tomatoes, capsicums, potatoes, and eggplants (Solanaceae – nightshade family)
Corn and grains (Poaceae – grass family)
Kumara (Conolvulaceae – bindweeds or morning glories)
Developing a crop rotation plan
There are many different examples of rotation plans available so I am not putting one specific one here and it really depends on your own set up. You might choose a more complex rotation that runs over a seven-year cycle and incorporates a couple of years of fertility building with cover crops (more for a market gardener). Another alternative for a smaller plot could be based on grouping your rotations by root crops, brassica, greens and legumes, and alliums. You would then try to have a long gap between replanting in the same bed those that are more susceptible to disease like alliums, tomatoes, brassicas and potatoes.
I find it particularly successful if I have an area that has been in a cover crop or a new bed that has been in grass, to start with potatoes to break up the soil, then I will then grow a range of brassica depending on timing as they require more fertility; if it is later in autumn and too late to get the brassica in I may just pop in a legume after potatoes such as broad beans over winter. Lettuce I pop in wherever I have a gap. Another successful rotation I have had is planting broccoli after kumara.
There are loads of great resources on rotation planting, so again how you plant depends on what you are doing in the garden and how detailed you want to be. And keep a record of what you plant where, you’ll think you’ll remember, but two years later it can be different story – jot it down or take a photo.
Diversity is still key
Whatever you decide to do in your garden, don’t forget the other principles to incorporate, mulching well, well matured compost and adding in lots of plant diversity. Add in flowers and natives wherever you can to attract all those beneficial insects and increase soil life – remember nature loves diversity and flowers can lift the spirit on a gloomy day.
This interview is from a visit to Shangri-la in Northland, where I spoke with gardener Magic about his experience growing food using a veganic system. The interview was inspiring and so I am now sharing it here.
Shangri-La is the New Zealand arm of Gentle World, a charitable trust in operation for 40 years with a base in Hawaii for the past 35 years.
To get to Shangri-La, I drove into the breath-taking Mangamuka Gorge and then down a long, winding driveway to a hidden valley of lush native bush and gardens. Along with the tropical weather of the north, I felt as if I had arrived in paradise.
Magic, has a background in growing commercially and organically, and now runs the gardens at Shangri-La veganically. He doesn’t use any animal by-products on the gardens, so no blood and bone, animal manures (except from one rescued horse, Isa), no slaughterhouse by-products or fish. The gardens continue to grow and flourish, with any animal inputs provided freely by the diverse bird and insect life.
How to build soil fertility with cover crops and compost
One challenge for all gardeners and growers is to build soil fertility. Vegan gardeners will sometimes say they cut out the ‘middleman’, or the farmed animal. Magic does this predominantly by relying on fertility that comes directly from plants. With green cover crops Magic explains, you are basically growing your own fertilisers.
When vegetables are finished in a bed, he plants a cover crop as quickly to keep the soil covered. In the past he has used lupins, which he found really good, until the pheasants discovered their love for them. So now he uses chia plants. He says chia is amazing and he interplants it in the beds in summer, as it has a long growing season. Once it is sown it will continue through into winter when it can be dug in as a green manure crop. From his experience, Magic has found that it’s really good for the soil if you open it up and let the green manures do their thing.
Magic is also a fan of making compost, so when he is planting heavy feeders such as cucumbers and tomatoes, he will open up a row, put in the compost, cover and plant so the seedlings will go down and get the extra boost as they get their roots into it.
For other amendments he occasionally uses a bit of lime when the garden needs it. He says he has used rock dust in the past, but not for quite a while as the soil he is growing on is a very mineral rich alluvial clay silt. It’s a good example of knowing the soil you are growing in. If he were in an area where the soil is not good, he says he would look at doing raised beds or no dig.
Rotating crops and interplanting
Magic uses crop rotation and says it is a more sustainable practice than growing the same crop year after year, which depletes the soil of nutriments. Rotation also reduces the risk of plant diseases that can build up in the soil over time.
Magic also interplants crops which he says is beneficial in a number of ways; you can grow more plants per square meter, some plants benefit others by providing shelter or shade, and it can help with insect and disease prevention.
Can you use cover crops in a small garden?
What about if you only have a small city garden? Magic suggests cover crops again and shows me a small 2 x 1 metre bed he has close to the house. With a small garden he suggests breaking it up into a number of smaller areas, rotating between vegetables and cover crops. Once the cover crop is ready, he would mow or weed-eat it down, cover it to allow it to decompose slightly, and finally dig it into the soil before planting.
Managing other animals
Magic says an important part of vegan organic growing is protecting your crops from birds, insects, possums and rats by using nets and methods like tree protectors and fences.
The possum shields on fruit trees at Shangri-la, show true kiwi innovation in action. At first Magic says they used corrugated iron around the trunks of the fruit trees and trained the tree high. However, eventually the possums figured out a way to jump up high above these iron sheathes. So, after much head scratching and experimentation they developed an aluminium shield on the trees and as the possums can’t see the edge of the aluminium against the sky, they can’t see where to jump and so don’t even try. The same method has worked around their gardens using fencing with an aluminium strip.
Aluminium possum shield on a lemon tree
Magic says as possums are very territorial, if one is removed another one will arrive, so it becomes an endless cycle, so the best way they have found is to just keep them out altogether. From what I could see success of this method was certainly beginning to show with lush fruit trees and gardens.
Visiting Shangri-La
If you are interested to know more about Gentle World and Shangri-la, pop over to their website https://gentleworld.org/. You can also contact Magic through their website to arrange a visit.
In this interview, I chat to Iain Tolhurst from the UK about using woodchip on his farm.
I discovered Iain Tolhurst’s work when I Googled Veganic in 2016. Tolhurst grows certified organic food on leased land for a box scheme and farm shop in the UK. He has been growing without using animal inputs such as manures and blood and bone, on just under 20 acres (about 8 hectares) for 35 years. His farm was described in George Monbiot’s 2022 book Regenesis as “a genuinely regenerative, organic system”1 using no artificial or livestock inputs and creating a space for diversity and wildlife to return.
Tolhurst grows about 100 different varieties of vegetables on his farm. He uses a system of long seven-year rotations and times the planting of the various crops to fit their differing fertility needs. When a plot is at the end of five years, he takes it out of production for two years to build the soil fertility using green manures of legumes and wildflowers to which he also adds ramial woodchip.
It was his use of woodchip that I was particularly interested in when I asked for an interview. Woodchip offers a good addition to the growing toolkit of alternative solutions to using manures, other animal inputs or artificial fertilisers in gardens and growing systems.
Woodchip at Tolhurst Organics
While we are used to seeing woodchips around fruit trees, on ornamental perennial beds and in forest gardens, using it in vegetable beds often raises questions about nitrogen lockup and soil health. Nitrogen lockup can occur when a carbon-rich material, such as woodchip, creates an imbalance in the soil. However, Tolhurst agreed to the interview as he wanted to highlight the potential of using woodchip in horticultural growing systems.
At Tolhurst’s farm, they use woodchips in various ways; as a propagation substrate, a seedling mix, applying it directly to the plots to build fertility and as a weed suppressant on pathways in tunnel houses. However, he explains, the key to the system working and avoiding nitrogen lockup, is to use different forms of woodchip, appling it correctly, and timing the harvest of the woodchip.
Tolhurst sources the woodchip for the farm from local arborists and it comes from a mix of trees, usually from local gardens. Using local material also reduces the carbon footprint of transport, an issue with many fertilisers. Tolhurst explains that the woodchip is very different from wood shavings or sawdust, as using these would cause issues as they are difficult to compost.
Woodchipsandcomposting
Once the woodchip arrives on the farm, it is composted in a long pile called a windrow. This is turned four times in the first year, after which it is applied directly in the tunnel houses as compost.
To make a seed-raising mix, they also keep some of this composted woodchip and continue composting it for another six months to two years. At this stage, it becomes very crumbly and there is not much visible woodchip left. They then grade it and add a little vermiculite. In Tolhurst’s experience he says, it acts as well as any peat-based material. Finding an alternative to peat-based material has been important in their search for alternative fertility-building materials, especially in potting mixes.
Ramial woodchip
Ramial woodchip is an exciting development in growing systems and growers are experimenting with its use. Ramial woodchip is chipped branch wood sourced from branches less than 7cm in diameter and excludes any wood from the tree trunk. The reason for using chipped branch wood is it has a lower carbon-to-nitrogen ratio than trunk wood and, as the chip is applied fresh, it retains many of the tree’s nutrients and energy in the chip.
Tolhurst explains that he uses ramial woodchip in very modest amounts and adds this into the green manure phase of the growing system. Because they are in the UK, most of their ramial woodchip is harvested in winter and this works well as many of their indigenous trees are deciduous.
At Flowering Bean Organic Gardens, we are exploring using ramial woodchip from introduced deciduous trees and may experiment with some branches from native non-deciduous trees. Not scientific, but certainly a fun to experiment to see what happens in our growing system.
A mixed cover crop that has had ramial woodchip added for fertility Flowering Bean Organic Gardens
Woodchips on pathways
The other application of woodchips at Tolhurst Organics is the more traditional use of woodchips on pathways. The advantage, Tolhurst explains, is that the woodchip suppresses weeds and adds fertility as it breaks down and the fertility moves across into the beds carried by microorganisms. They lay it about 7cm thick and it reduces weeds for about 2 to 3 years before it is topped up again.
Spot the worm! Woodchip pile full of worms at Flowering Bean Organic Gardens
Talking to Tolhurst and learning more about the innovations on his farm, was certainly inspiring and I know there are many here in Aotearoa trying out new systems and ideas in both commercial and residential gardens. I hope this interview inspires and provides an introduction to the huge topic of using woodchips for fertility.
For anyone wanting to do a deep dive into using woodchip in gardens and farms, I found the Woodchip Handbook, A Complete Guide for Farmers, Gardeners and Landscapers by Ben Raskin and published by Chelsea Green Publishing had lots of great information.
Don’t forget to always consider your safety when working with woodchip and compost materials. Here are some links to more more information about protecting your health when working with composting material.
Unseen below ground is a vast world, teeming with life. Well at least we hope so… but sadly so much of our soil is now depleted. However, we still have time to restore the richness of the soil by increasing the crucial levels of beneficial microorganisms, fungi, and bacteria.
But what about the humble earthworm – including our native species? Like most gardeners, I’m excited to see earthworms in the garden and wonder if we tend to know intuitively that they are good for fertility and soil health, but I suspect most of us know very little about them. To delve into the topic of earthworms, I talked to Prof Steven Trewick, Professor in Evolutionary Ecology at Massey University.
Earthworms are specialists
Earthworms belong to the group of invertebrate animals known as annelids, or segmented worms, which include more than 20,000 species around the globe. They are highly diverse in the way they live, but because they dehydrate in the open, they are constrained to living below the surface of the soil or in the sea.
Trewick describes how earthworm species are specialised to different areas and the ground can be partitioned into three zones where the different species live:
Epigeic earthworms live in the surface and leaf litter area and break down dead organic matter.
Endogeic earthworms live in the in the topsoil layer and create horizontal burrows.
Anecic earthworms live in the lower level of subsoil. They make permanent vertical burrows and glean nutrients from minerals and organic matter. These subsoil species can be big and include a bioluminescent species of native worm known as Octochaetus multiporus that can grow up to 30cm long1.
Some of the introduced worms are specialists of pastures and others thrive in gardens, while the tiger worm mostly lives in compost heaps and doesn’t do well if moved into the garden. As Trewick says, it shows us how different the ecologies of different species are.
New Zealand’s native earthworms
Aotearoa New Zealand is also home to around 180 native species of earthworms and Trewick says we are finding more species all the time. The native earthworms belong to the family of Megascolecidae, and they live across our country’s forestlands.
However, Trewick says we don’t know if native worms are surviving around the country, and the general view is that as you get into pasture and urban areas the native worms disappear. But those are two correlated observations (one observation that appears to be related with another), and it might not be completely cause and effect; there may be more going on in the deeper soil. However, these days when we see a worm in our gardens or above soil after rain, it is likely to be one of the introduced Lumbricidae earthworms. These species were brought to Aotearoa New Zealand from Europe.
Garden fertility and earthworms
Worms create burrows and pores in the soil, which aid growth by aerating the soil and creating space for water and root growth. They also break down, move and recycle organic matter, creating richer and more diverse soil structure which is very important for plant growth. Pavlis (2020) suggests the microbial activity in worm casts is 10-20 times higher than it is in soil.2 Trewick says, that like every animal on the planet, it’s the microbiome associated with their gut that enables them to do what they do.
The study of soil microbiology, earthworms and fertility is complex and ongoing, but most of gardeners and growers will agree, the presence of earthworms is a pretty good sign in a garden.
How can we support earthworm populations?
To support earthworms, first and foremost, we need to think of our gardens as habitats. Trewick says, “Diversity is the answer; the garden shouldn’t be thought of as some sort of clinical formalised arrangement of things. You have to allow the process to work. Having a messy garden is good for diversity. We have to share the space a bit.”
“It’s not how you grow stuff, it’s how you dump stuff!”
This fantastic quote from Trewick is a perfect way to describe what we need to be thinking about in our gardens. Aim to always be increasing organic matter — mulch, mulch, and more mulch. This has several functions; it keeps your soil moist, providing a safer environment for the worms and microbiology; and it provides organic matter and food. This in turn decreases the need to cultivate, which helps increase your worm population. Read more about mulching here.
“It’s not how you grow stuff it’s how you dump stuff”
To support earthworm populations Trewick suggests that gardeners:
leave things to break down, be it a pile of logs or leaf litter
keep the circle of fertility going by giving back regularly
keep compacted areas to a minimum – reduce pathway size between beds and keep heavy machinery off your gardens
use low or no till to reduce the disturbance to earthworms and microorganisms
reduce or stop using pesticides and herbicides.
Perennial plants are also a bonus for earthworms because you can create undisturbed habitats where they can thrive. You can read more about perennial plants here.
How can we design our gardens to support earthworms?
The edges are an importance part of our human spaces. The edges are where diversity can thrive; our forests and scrub edges encourage a crossover of diversity into more cultivated areas. However, Trewick says, one problem is our large-scale paddocks as they can be overwhelming to native fauna.
In a home garden too, when we design our vegetable patches as highly controlled zones, surrounded by single species lawn and clipped hedges, we are reducing habitat. Trewick suggests, if we do feel the need to control the vege or flower patch, we can have ‘messy’ edges where biodiversity can flourish. Who knows, maybe there might be some bio-luminescent native earthworms trolling down there!
Messy edges in a home garden can support earthworms
Further resources
Wild Life New Zealand Textbook focusing on the unique plants and animals of Aotearoa by Trewick, S & Morgan-Richards, M. Phoenix Group Evolutionary Ecology & Genetics @ Te Taha Tawhiti https://evolves.massey.ac.nz
Chickpeas are still a novelty plant in gardens in Aotearoa, but one I think should become a staple. While the space required for a large harvest is not feasible for a small garden, I would still recommend them. They are beautiful, graceful plants and extremely easy to grow in the right conditions. I have also used chickpeas as a cover crop and experimented interplanting them with other crops.
Sowing chickpeas
Sow chickpea seeds directly in an area that gets at least 6 hours of sun. You will also need to be sure the area has good drainage.
Chickpeas can be planted in succession from spring through to early summer and after the danger of frosts have passed, although they can survive a light frost after planting. I have also sowed chickpeas in early autumn as a cover crop rather than for harvest.
Sow seeds about 30cm apart in rows spaced 50 cm apart. They can also be planted in a grid pattern with about 50cm between each plant. This spacing allows the plants to grow and shade the soil, which helps retain moisture during the summer. However, if you live in an area with high humidity, wider spacing will allow more airflow between the plants.
Waterand mulch
Chickpeas can grow in quite dry conditions, but keep an eye on the soil and if it is dry, they benefit from a good water. Where we live, water can be a precious commodity in summer (although not always!) so our chickpeas don’t usually get any extra water throughout the summer. During a particularly harsh summer, I noticed the plants suffered, but still outperformed many of the other plants.
If you grow chickpeas in pots, they will need regular watering. It is a good idea to water them directly into the pot rather than above to reduce the potential for disease.
Mulch also provides a protective layer and helps prevent soil from drying out, regulates the soil temperature and suppresses weeds. There are a few options for mulching chickpeas, which are usually planted directly:
Place the mulch around the plants once they are about 5 cm tall.
Plant seeds into an area that is already mulched by pulling some mulch aside when planting.
Grow chickpeas in trays first and then plant them out once established in a mulched area.
Harvesting chickpeas
Growing chickpeas through to the dry stage does take a while, with harvest after about 100 days in late summer. Before harvest, it is best to let them completely dry on the plant and then chop the plant from the base. If wet weather threatens, you can finish under cover if they are very close to being dry.
After harvesting, hang in bunches to finish drying in an area with good air circulation (we have also found spreading them over our clothes horse worked well). Once the pods start splitting and the peas are hard (you cannot make a dent with a fingernail) remove peas from the pods and store. Harvesting is a little time-consuming as they grow in small pods, with only one or two peas per pod. They also don’t pop out of a dry pod as easily as other dry beans. The dry plant then makes a great brown carbon addition to the compost.
Probably one of the hardest issues you will face growing chickpeas in New Zealand is getting the seed. I have also seen them for sale as seedlings, so they are starting to appear in Aotearoa. Perhaps we’ll even see some different varieties of chickpeas become available in the future.
Growing plants from seeds can be a satisfying experience that allows you to explore a wide range of plant species and choose ones that are best suited to your local climate. It also means you can be in control of the medium your seeds are grown in.
The first decision you’ll need to make when buying seeds is what type to use. Here are some of the different terms you’ll encounter.
Hybrid seeds
Hybrid seeds are seeds from two genetically different plants which have been crossed to produce plants with specific benefits, for example, plants that are tolerant of drought. Seeds of hybrids are not good for seed saving because they contain a mixture of genetic material.
Most hybrid seed packets will have the label F1, which simply means the seeds are from the first generation of the breeding process.
Open-pollinated seeds
These are seeds which produce plants that are pollinated in the environment by birds, insects and other animals or are self-pollinating. Open-pollinated seeds will produce the same plant as the parent plant and be true-to-type unless they cross with another variety of the same species of plant.
Heirloom seeds
Heirloom seeds are those which have been selected, saved and grown over many generations. Heirlooms have a history and story behind them and are considered to be very precious to save for future generations. Heirlooms are open-pollinated and will grow true to type if saved and grown far enough away (this will vary depending on the plant), so as not to cross-pollinate with different varieties of the same species.
There are some amazing people saving heirloom varieties for future generations and many seed suppliers specialise in heirloom seeds. Heirloom seeds are often called heritage seeds.
Seed-raising mix
You may wish to do a little research before you purchase a seed-raising mix. Many seed-raising mixes contain animal products such as blood and bone or chicken manure from animals grown in factory farm conditions or breeds of chicken that endure short painful lives. You can read more about this issue here Key Issues in Chicken Farming. Peat in seed-raising mixes can also have an impact on our climate as we drain and dry peatland (Munro, 2021). You can read more here For Peat’s sake. Non-organic composts usually contain synthetic fertilisers and it can be difficult to know where and how these have been produced. This makes getting a medium to grow seeds tricky if you are trying to grow without animal industry by-products, peat or synthetic fertilisers.
Let’s look at a few different seed-raising medium options and don’t be afraid to experiment with what you have available.
Homemade compost
Well finished hot compost makes a very productive seed-raising mix. You can also add fully composted woodchip to this mix if you have some, but it needs to be composted to the point where there is no chip visible. We use about 3/4 compost, 1/4 woodchip. You can also add a bit of soil to this mix to increase microbiology.
Well finished compost
Once you have mixed the different materials you will need to sift out the larger particles, as seeds germinate better in fine soil. We use a homemade sieve, which is just wire netting on a frame. Once the larger pieces of compost are removed these can be used as a mulch or returned to a new compost heap to continue to break down.
Leafmould
Fallen leaves can also be turned into a seed-raising mix. It does require patience as the leafmould can take two or even up to three years to fully decompose.
Place the leaves in wire netting shaped around a frame, a wooden compost bin or a bag. If you place them in a bag you will need to make sure it has holes to allow the air to circulate. Cutting up the leaves with a lawnmower before you start will help speed up the composting process.
Keep the leaf pile moist and turn it every month or two to increase the process, but you can also just leave it in place. Once the leafmould has broken down you will need to sieve it and add sand, or vermiculite to the mix to increase drainage.
Commercial compost
Commercial green waste compost can be turned into a seed-raising mix with the addition of some drainage materials, for example, vermiculite, perlite, coconut coir or sand. This helps to keep the mix well drained and light enough that the plants don’t get waterlogged. Again adding in some weed-free soil to increase microbiology can be helpful. Some seaweed fertiliser is also useful to increase the fertility of the mix.
Check in with companies about what they use in their mix
I would also recommend getting on the phone and asking around to see what different companies put in their seed-raising mixes and composts. Some will list what is in their compost on the website.
Planting seeds
Once you have your seed-raising mix, the next step is to get those seeds underway in the best conditions possible. Here are a few pointers for planting into trays or pots.
Keep the seeds moist
When sowing in trays, place moist newsprint paper over your trays and keep the paper damp. This means the soil will remain evenly moist and the small seeds won’t be battered by watering. Check regularly and as soon as the plants emerge, remove the paper.
Transplant into larger trays
Some plants such as broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower benefit when transplanted into a second tray (pricking out) before planting in the ground. This gives them a second ‘meal’ to ensure they grow strong. I have found this particularly useful to help prevent damage from slugs and snails as the bigger, healthier plants appear to be less tempting and can withstand a bit of damage if it occurs.
You can use a special pricking out tool to transplant the seedlings into bigger pots, but I just use a kitchen knife. Once the seedlings emerge and have their first true set of leaves (leaves that resemble the parent plant) you can prick them out.
First, make a small hole in the soil of the pot you wish to transfer the seedling to. Next, place the knife down beside the seedling and while gently holding their leaves, lift them out of the tray. Then place them into the new hole and firm the soil. At this stage, you may also wish to give them a seaweed fertiliser boost.
Planting out
When it is time to plant out, give the seedlings a good soak and then make sure they don’t dry out as they establish in the ground. If you move seedlings from a warm spot in a greenhouse or inside the house put them outside for a few days to a week, before transplanting. This will allow a ‘hardening off’ period and reduce transplant shock.
Some seeds are best directly sown onto the garden, such as carrots and radishes. Most bean and pea varieties can also be directly sown, although sometimes it is better to raise as seedlings to be sure they are strong once in the ground and able to resist rotting or slug damage.
Some seeds, for example carrots, can be tricky to grow because don’t cope with drying out. You can give them a helping hand by placing something like a shade cloth over the ground and removing it as soon as the seeds emerge.
Below are some examples of what we plant directdirectly, what we grow in trays and what we prick out into a second pot before planting out:
flowering bean organic gardens 