I first interviewed Coral Remiro in 2024. At that time, she was the farm manager at Earth Stewards, an urban farm in Kirikiriroa, Hamilton. We had a fascinating chat about the successful polycropping method she’d implemented on the farm.
What is polycropping?
Polycropping is a technique that involves growing different crops together in a garden bed instead of using the more traditional monocropping planting method. It can be used in a small garden or larger growing system.
Spinach, cabbages, radish and coriander growing in a polycropping system
What are the advantages of polycropping?
Coral has found that one of the advantages of polycropping is an increase in the number of plants that can be grown in a small space. This has created more space to plant cover crops. She says, this has been a game changer as the cover crops reduce weed pressure, add a source of nitrogen, and provide more compost material.
Polycroppingalso increases biological diversity in and above the soil, directly helping to maintain a balanced system. Different insects, microorganisms, and other animals are attracted to the different habitats provided by different plants in close proximity.
Is polycropping complicated?
Polycropping is complicated until, as Coral says, “you can get your head around it.” She does not spend time these days considering companion planting so much as thinking about how plants grow. She explains that there are some key concepts to consider when grouping plants together including:
how much space is available around a plant as it grows
how long it takes for each type of plant to reach harvest size
light requirements for each plant
how different plants grow – vertically or horizontally
if the plants are root or leaf crops.
Hero plants
In her planning Coral thinks about how to create guilds – groupings of plants that support each other. She has found the best way to plan her garden is to organise plants into groups based on how long it takes for them to grow to harvest size:short, medium, and long-term. Plants like tomatoes and brassica take the longest to grow and she says these are the ‘hero’ plants. She suggests using these plants as a base to work around and then planting faster growing and smaller plants around these, for example, coriander and radish.
Kale, lettuce and coriander
The importance of record keeping
Like all gardeners and growers, Coral has learnt some lessons the hard way. For example, she planted lots of beetroot plants around other plants without considering how much light they needed. She says, one of the keys to success in polycropping is observation and recording what works well and what doesn’t. I would also suggest taking a photo before you forget – seasons pass fast!
Brassica surrounded by a range of plants including lettuce and coriander
What I really appreciated when talking to Coral was her openness to trying new things in the garden. I also valued her approach to creating diversity. It’s always good to remember that in a garden, diversity can mitigate risk.
Visiting Earth Stewarts Urban Farm https://earthstewards.nz/ and chatting to Coral was an inspiration.
Crop rotation is simply organising plants into different plant families and rotating the plantings over time, or basically not planting the same annual crops in the same place each year.
Crop rotation does require some planning. If detailed planning is your thing, you can create a long-term rotation design with a detailed plan (probably more for a market gardener), or you can also keep it simple and incorporate at least some rotation around the garden.
Sprouting purple broccoli flourishing after a crop of potatoes
Healthier Soil, Better Harvests
Different plants require different nutrient levels, so rotating your crops can help reduce the number of inputs you may need to use. A crop that is a heavy feeder can be followed by something that requires less nutrients, and a crop with deep roots followed by a shallow rooted crop.
Another advantage of crop rotation is reducing the potential for soil-borne disease. This is because plants in the same family are more likely to suffer from the same issues. For example, planting brassicas (e.g., kale, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower) in the same plot every year increases the risk of club-root, because the fungal disease’s spores can persist in the soil. It’s a good idea to leave a gap of at least three or four years between plantings.
Rotating crops can help reduce insect damage by preventing a build-up of damaging insects in a crop year after year.
Another advantage is different crops work on the soil in unique way, for example, deep rooting crops can improve the soil structure.
Different plant groupings
It is useful to have some understanding of the different families of plants if you want to use crop rotation. I also find it useful to keep seeds stored by the different groups in containers.
Leeks, onions, spring onions, garlic (Allium family)
Courgette, melons (Cucurbitaceae)
Carrots, celeriac, celery (Umbellifeae)
Tomatoes, capsicums, potatoes, and eggplants (Solanaceae – nightshade family)
Corn and grains (Poaceae – grass family)
Kumara (Conolvulaceae – bindweeds or morning glories)
Developing a crop rotation plan
There are many different examples of rotation plans available so I am not putting one specific one here and it really depends on your own set up. You might choose a more complex rotation that runs over a seven-year cycle and incorporates a couple of years of fertility building with cover crops (more for a market gardener). Another alternative for a smaller plot could be based on grouping your rotations by root crops, brassica, greens and legumes, and alliums. You would then try to have a long gap between replanting in the same bed those that are more susceptible to disease like alliums, tomatoes, brassicas and potatoes.
I find it particularly successful if I have an area that has been in a cover crop or a new bed that has been in grass, to start with potatoes to break up the soil, then I will then grow a range of brassica depending on timing as they require more fertility; if it is later in autumn and too late to get the brassica in I may just pop in a legume after potatoes such as broad beans over winter. Lettuce I pop in wherever I have a gap. Another successful rotation I have had is planting broccoli after kumara.
There are loads of great resources on rotation planting, so again how you plant depends on what you are doing in the garden and how detailed you want to be. And keep a record of what you plant where, you’ll think you’ll remember, but two years later it can be different story – jot it down or take a photo.
Diversity is still key
Whatever you decide to do in your garden, don’t forget the other principles to incorporate, mulching well, well matured compost and adding in lots of plant diversity. Add in flowers and natives wherever you can to attract all those beneficial insects and increase soil life – remember nature loves diversity and flowers can lift the spirit on a gloomy day.
If you’ve been on any health kick, you’ve likely heard someone highlight the benefits of cruciferous vegetables. You’ve probably eaten some too. The most familiar in this group are brassica, e.g. broccoli, pak choi, cabbage and cauliflower. Others include the much-touted rock star vegetable kale. There is also the unusual-looking kohlrabi. My current favorite is the nutrition powerhouse collard greens.
However, eating these vegetables is one thing, but growing them can leave you feeling a little underwhelmed. You question your gardening skills when your broccoli is hit by white butterflies, the kale gets covered in whitefly and seedlings are demolished by slugs and snails. While much advice focuses on using slug bait, chemical fertilizers, and manures, there are some key principles. These principles can help you grow healthy plants.
Crop rotation
Vegetables require a good level of soil fertility and by rotating crops around and incorporating cover crops and compost, the heaviest feeders like brassicas, can go into a more fertile part of the rotation cycle. Another advantage of crop rotation is it helps to reduce disease and weed pressure. Even if you are planting a mix of vegetables, some form of crop rotation of annuals can help soil health.
Ideally, leave a gap of three to four years between each brassica crop. In raised beds, it’s possible to plant different families in each bed and rotate them between the beds.
If you have the space, start each crop rotation cycle with a green manure crop. We use a mixed cover crop including clover. We leave this in for 18 months and this acts to grow the soil microbiology and we cut and drop the cover crop multiple times during this phase. But even just one season using a cover crop like lupins and phacelia, to build fertility and organic matter, can help to get the soil humming.
After this initial cover crop I plant potatoes and once harvested, in go the first late summer brassica crops.
Mulching and compost
Red kale with lupins cut and dropped as a mulch
Mulch not only keeps the moisture in, but it also adds to fertility as it breaks down. You can mulch with cover crops, compost, straw, grass and even weeds (not invasive ones or ones which have gone to seed).
Adding compost will also add fertility for brassica crops which are heavy feeders, especially those like cauliflower that require a long growing season. You can also mulch with compost.
Seeds and seedlings
One key element to successful vegetables is growing robust seedlings. Experiment with different seeds and know that even the most experienced grower has suffered seed varieties that don’t do so well in their garden. Weather, climate and soil temperatures all play a part.
Rocket and mizuna can go straight in the ground for some fast salad greens. But for others you’ll need to grow as seedlings first and the stronger the better, so they are less tempting to slugs and snails.
Broccoli, collards, cabbage and kale need extra care before they go into the garden bed. If you are raising from seeds yourself, plant them into trays first, then prick them out when they have their first true leaves – the second pair of leaves – and then repot them into larger, deeper trays or individual pots. The extra boost at each stage gives them a boost of extra fertility. This also helps the plants develop a good root system before they go into the ground. Wait until they are about 8-10cm before planting out. I have found this also helps reduce slug and snail pressure on the plants.
Rocket, mizuna and a few weeds!
We use a seaweed fertilizer for our seedlings when they are establishing to give them a boost. We grow most of our seedlings in our own sifted compost, and it is rich in microbiology and the seedlings just thrive. We’ve spent quite a while perfecting this so if you can, try to get a compost heap underway.
Cover your crops and choose your timing
Netting is essential when growing broccoli, cabbages, collards and kale in our gardens. Where we live, we find we can plant seeds in early spring and again in late January through autumn to establish the plants before the cooler months. When the white butterflies are around we keep the plants covered with netting until we hit cooler temperatures and the white butterflies are gone.
There are also plants which help repel white butterflies and diversity in the garden creates habitat for beneficial insects in even the smallest garden. But with many brassicas I find covers are still essential.
It’s certainly a challenge managing those creatures that are in the wrong place in your garden. Knowing what to do and who to believe is difficult when you find an animal decimating your carefully tended crop.
Having a baseline can help us make garden decisions. With this foundation, plans can be made in line with your own ethics, climate, needs, and the surrounding environment. My aim is to grow organically, and I also try to create a diverse environment. This approach helps with my decision making.
Slugs and snails
An explosion of snails and slugs in any garden is an ongoing problem, especially during damp conditions. Most gardeners will attest that it’s pretty hard to get rid of any one species of animal permanently. Yet, there are some things you can do that can help create a balance.
One way is to create habitats for the animals you want, while working to reduce the habitat of those you don’t. Some birds, like thrushes and blackbirds, eat snails and slugs so we encourage them. We try to create bird habitats with lots of trees and some scrubby areas. However, we also try to remove hiding places for slugs and snails. We do this by keeping the grass short close to the garden beds.
Without a cat around Mamma Thrush decided to have her babies close to ground level.
Another popular method is to place pots upside down on the garden patch. This encourages snails to gather. Then, you can move them away from the garden. Be sure to take them far enough away as they will work hard to find their way back!
Slugs and snails particularly like smaller or weaker seedlings, so strong healthy plants are often less vulnerable. Growing some seedlings larger before planting them out in the garden has been a game changer. This is especially true for those plants that are vulnerable. You can read more about this here.
Sometimes it is also worth allowing one plant to act as a sacrificial plant. Leave it in place to let the slugs and snails eat it. This way, others can continue to grow strong. It seems counter intuitive, but we have had some success trying this method.
It’s also good to observe your garden to see what is chewing on your plant. Check at different times of the day. What looks like slug damage may in fact be something else.
Larger animals
You can protect your plants from seed and fruit eating birds by using netting. This method also works against small mammals. It’s a good idea to use netting that is small enough, so birds won’t get caught in it. Always keep a close eye on it and check daily in case there are issues.
Covering seeds in the ground with a green shade cloth can protect them before they germinate. This prevents seeds from being disturbed by birds. For carrot seeds this also helps to keep the soil moist which helps the seeds germinate.
Insects
Celebrate insects! It means you have diversity. But of course, you don’t want to lose all of your crops to an overpopulation of certain insects. Having a wide variety of plants in a garden is therefore very beneficial. Diverse plantings help diverse insect populations thrive.
Flowers of different shapes and sizes will support different insects’ feeding habits. For example, the small hoverfly, often referred to as a beneficial insect, needs different things at different stages. At the larvae stage, they feed on insects like aphids. At the adult stage, they will need flowers for pollen and nectar.1
Flowers entice insects and humans alike!
Create permanent habitats to support beneficial insects. You may wish to keep a section of the garden for perennial plants. Alternatively, dedicate a row in your vege patch. This allows for some longer-term insect habitats.
Aim to have flowers all year round, both native and introduced. Plant some eco-sourced natives to encourage native insects. Don’t forget about our native bees, ngaro-huruhuru. Other easy to grow plants to encourage beneficial insects include phacelia, alyssum, buckwheat, bergamot, cornflowers, chives and marigolds.
One of our wild and mostly perennial insect habitat plantings.
Spiders
I’ll finish with the wonderful spider. They are a good sign that things are going well, and you have a diverse environment. They eat both the bugs you want and those you don’t. However, they can help prevent an imbalance of one species.
Above all experiment and play in the garden. Even commercial and experienced growers sometimes lose crops and must go back to square one. It’s also another good reason to create diversity and spread the risk.
Disclaimer The information provided on this site is for general guidance only. Users of the information contained on this site must make their own assessment of the suitability and appropriateness of the products, services and information for their particular use.
In this interview, I chat to Iain Tolhurst from the UK about using woodchip on his farm.
I discovered Iain Tolhurst’s work when I Googled Veganic in 2016. Tolhurst grows certified organic food on leased land for a box scheme and farm shop in the UK. He has been growing without using animal inputs such as manures and blood and bone, on just under 20 acres (about 8 hectares) for 35 years. His farm was described in George Monbiot’s 2022 book Regenesis as “a genuinely regenerative, organic system”1 using no artificial or livestock inputs and creating a space for diversity and wildlife to return.
Tolhurst grows about 100 different varieties of vegetables on his farm. He uses a system of long seven-year rotations and times the planting of the various crops to fit their differing fertility needs. When a plot is at the end of five years, he takes it out of production for two years to build the soil fertility using green manures of legumes and wildflowers to which he also adds ramial woodchip.
It was his use of woodchip that I was particularly interested in when I asked for an interview. Woodchip offers a good addition to the growing toolkit of alternative solutions to using manures, other animal inputs or artificial fertilisers in gardens and growing systems.
Woodchip at Tolhurst Organics
While we are used to seeing woodchips around fruit trees, on ornamental perennial beds and in forest gardens, using it in vegetable beds often raises questions about nitrogen lockup and soil health. Nitrogen lockup can occur when a carbon-rich material, such as woodchip, creates an imbalance in the soil. However, Tolhurst agreed to the interview as he wanted to highlight the potential of using woodchip in horticultural growing systems.
At Tolhurst’s farm, they use woodchips in various ways; as a propagation substrate, a seedling mix, applying it directly to the plots to build fertility and as a weed suppressant on pathways in tunnel houses. However, he explains, the key to the system working and avoiding nitrogen lockup, is to use different forms of woodchip, appling it correctly, and timing the harvest of the woodchip.
Tolhurst sources the woodchip for the farm from local arborists and it comes from a mix of trees, usually from local gardens. Using local material also reduces the carbon footprint of transport, an issue with many fertilisers. Tolhurst explains that the woodchip is very different from wood shavings or sawdust, as using these would cause issues as they are difficult to compost.
Woodchipsandcomposting
Once the woodchip arrives on the farm, it is composted in a long pile called a windrow. This is turned four times in the first year, after which it is applied directly in the tunnel houses as compost.
To make a seed-raising mix, they also keep some of this composted woodchip and continue composting it for another six months to two years. At this stage, it becomes very crumbly and there is not much visible woodchip left. They then grade it and add a little vermiculite. In Tolhurst’s experience he says, it acts as well as any peat-based material. Finding an alternative to peat-based material has been important in their search for alternative fertility-building materials, especially in potting mixes.
Ramial woodchip
Ramial woodchip is an exciting development in growing systems and growers are experimenting with its use. Ramial woodchip is chipped branch wood sourced from branches less than 7cm in diameter and excludes any wood from the tree trunk. The reason for using chipped branch wood is it has a lower carbon-to-nitrogen ratio than trunk wood and, as the chip is applied fresh, it retains many of the tree’s nutrients and energy in the chip.
Tolhurst explains that he uses ramial woodchip in very modest amounts and adds this into the green manure phase of the growing system. Because they are in the UK, most of their ramial woodchip is harvested in winter and this works well as many of their indigenous trees are deciduous.
At Flowering Bean Organic Gardens, we are exploring using ramial woodchip from introduced deciduous trees and may experiment with some branches from native non-deciduous trees. Not scientific, but certainly a fun to experiment to see what happens in our growing system.
A mixed cover crop that has had ramial woodchip added for fertility Flowering Bean Organic Gardens
Woodchips on pathways
The other application of woodchips at Tolhurst Organics is the more traditional use of woodchips on pathways. The advantage, Tolhurst explains, is that the woodchip suppresses weeds and adds fertility as it breaks down and the fertility moves across into the beds carried by microorganisms. They lay it about 7cm thick and it reduces weeds for about 2 to 3 years before it is topped up again.
Spot the worm! Woodchip pile full of worms at Flowering Bean Organic Gardens
Talking to Tolhurst and learning more about the innovations on his farm, was certainly inspiring and I know there are many here in Aotearoa trying out new systems and ideas in both commercial and residential gardens. I hope this interview inspires and provides an introduction to the huge topic of using woodchips for fertility.
For anyone wanting to do a deep dive into using woodchip in gardens and farms, I found the Woodchip Handbook, A Complete Guide for Farmers, Gardeners and Landscapers by Ben Raskin and published by Chelsea Green Publishing had lots of great information.
Don’t forget to always consider your safety when working with woodchip and compost materials. Here are some links to more more information about protecting your health when working with composting material.
Chickpeas are still a novelty plant in gardens in Aotearoa, but one I think should become a staple. While the space required for a large harvest is not feasible for a small garden, I would still recommend them. They are beautiful, graceful plants and extremely easy to grow in the right conditions. I have also used chickpeas as a cover crop and experimented interplanting them with other crops.
Sowing chickpeas
Sow chickpea seeds directly in an area that gets at least 6 hours of sun. You will also need to be sure the area has good drainage.
Chickpeas can be planted in succession from spring through to early summer and after the danger of frosts have passed, although they can survive a light frost after planting. I have also sowed chickpeas in early autumn as a cover crop rather than for harvest.
Sow seeds about 30cm apart in rows spaced 50 cm apart. They can also be planted in a grid pattern with about 50cm between each plant. This spacing allows the plants to grow and shade the soil, which helps retain moisture during the summer. However, if you live in an area with high humidity, wider spacing will allow more airflow between the plants.
Waterand mulch
Chickpeas can grow in quite dry conditions, but keep an eye on the soil and if it is dry, they benefit from a good water. Where we live, water can be a precious commodity in summer (although not always!) so our chickpeas don’t usually get any extra water throughout the summer. During a particularly harsh summer, I noticed the plants suffered, but still outperformed many of the other plants.
If you grow chickpeas in pots, they will need regular watering. It is a good idea to water them directly into the pot rather than above to reduce the potential for disease.
Mulch also provides a protective layer and helps prevent soil from drying out, regulates the soil temperature and suppresses weeds. There are a few options for mulching chickpeas, which are usually planted directly:
Place the mulch around the plants once they are about 5 cm tall.
Plant seeds into an area that is already mulched by pulling some mulch aside when planting.
Grow chickpeas in trays first and then plant them out once established in a mulched area.
Harvesting chickpeas
Growing chickpeas through to the dry stage does take a while, with harvest after about 100 days in late summer. Before harvest, it is best to let them completely dry on the plant and then chop the plant from the base. If wet weather threatens, you can finish under cover if they are very close to being dry.
After harvesting, hang in bunches to finish drying in an area with good air circulation (we have also found spreading them over our clothes horse worked well). Once the pods start splitting and the peas are hard (you cannot make a dent with a fingernail) remove peas from the pods and store. Harvesting is a little time-consuming as they grow in small pods, with only one or two peas per pod. They also don’t pop out of a dry pod as easily as other dry beans. The dry plant then makes a great brown carbon addition to the compost.
Probably one of the hardest issues you will face growing chickpeas in New Zealand is getting the seed. I have also seen them for sale as seedlings, so they are starting to appear in Aotearoa. Perhaps we’ll even see some different varieties of chickpeas become available in the future.
Growing plants from seeds can be a satisfying experience that allows you to explore a wide range of plant species and choose ones that are best suited to your local climate. It also means you can be in control of the medium your seeds are grown in.
The first decision you’ll need to make when buying seeds is what type to use. Here are some of the different terms you’ll encounter.
Hybrid seeds
Hybrid seeds are seeds from two genetically different plants which have been crossed to produce plants with specific benefits, for example, plants that are tolerant of drought. Seeds of hybrids are not good for seed saving because they contain a mixture of genetic material.
Most hybrid seed packets will have the label F1, which simply means the seeds are from the first generation of the breeding process.
Open-pollinated seeds
These are seeds which produce plants that are pollinated in the environment by birds, insects and other animals or are self-pollinating. Open-pollinated seeds will produce the same plant as the parent plant and be true-to-type unless they cross with another variety of the same species of plant.
Heirloom seeds
Heirloom seeds are those which have been selected, saved and grown over many generations. Heirlooms have a history and story behind them and are considered to be very precious to save for future generations. Heirlooms are open-pollinated and will grow true to type if saved and grown far enough away (this will vary depending on the plant), so as not to cross-pollinate with different varieties of the same species.
There are some amazing people saving heirloom varieties for future generations and many seed suppliers specialise in heirloom seeds. Heirloom seeds are often called heritage seeds.
Seed-raising mix
You may wish to do a little research before you purchase a seed-raising mix. Many seed-raising mixes contain animal products such as blood and bone or chicken manure from animals grown in factory farm conditions or breeds of chicken that endure short painful lives. You can read more about this issue here Key Issues in Chicken Farming. Peat in seed-raising mixes can also have an impact on our climate as we drain and dry peatland (Munro, 2021). You can read more here For Peat’s sake. Non-organic composts usually contain synthetic fertilisers and it can be difficult to know where and how these have been produced. This makes getting a medium to grow seeds tricky if you are trying to grow without animal industry by-products, peat or synthetic fertilisers.
Let’s look at a few different seed-raising medium options and don’t be afraid to experiment with what you have available.
Homemade compost
Well finished hot compost makes a very productive seed-raising mix. You can also add fully composted woodchip to this mix if you have some, but it needs to be composted to the point where there is no chip visible. We use about 3/4 compost, 1/4 woodchip. You can also add a bit of soil to this mix to increase microbiology.
Well finished compost
Once you have mixed the different materials you will need to sift out the larger particles, as seeds germinate better in fine soil. We use a homemade sieve, which is just wire netting on a frame. Once the larger pieces of compost are removed these can be used as a mulch or returned to a new compost heap to continue to break down.
Leafmould
Fallen leaves can also be turned into a seed-raising mix. It does require patience as the leafmould can take two or even up to three years to fully decompose.
Place the leaves in wire netting shaped around a frame, a wooden compost bin or a bag. If you place them in a bag you will need to make sure it has holes to allow the air to circulate. Cutting up the leaves with a lawnmower before you start will help speed up the composting process.
Keep the leaf pile moist and turn it every month or two to increase the process, but you can also just leave it in place. Once the leafmould has broken down you will need to sieve it and add sand, or vermiculite to the mix to increase drainage.
Commercial compost
Commercial green waste compost can be turned into a seed-raising mix with the addition of some drainage materials, for example, vermiculite, perlite, coconut coir or sand. This helps to keep the mix well drained and light enough that the plants don’t get waterlogged. Again adding in some weed-free soil to increase microbiology can be helpful. Some seaweed fertiliser is also useful to increase the fertility of the mix.
Check in with companies about what they use in their mix
I would also recommend getting on the phone and asking around to see what different companies put in their seed-raising mixes and composts. Some will list what is in their compost on the website.
Planting seeds
Once you have your seed-raising mix, the next step is to get those seeds underway in the best conditions possible. Here are a few pointers for planting into trays or pots.
Keep the seeds moist
When sowing in trays, place moist newsprint paper over your trays and keep the paper damp. This means the soil will remain evenly moist and the small seeds won’t be battered by watering. Check regularly and as soon as the plants emerge, remove the paper.
Transplant into larger trays
Some plants such as broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower benefit when transplanted into a second tray (pricking out) before planting in the ground. This gives them a second ‘meal’ to ensure they grow strong. I have found this particularly useful to help prevent damage from slugs and snails as the bigger, healthier plants appear to be less tempting and can withstand a bit of damage if it occurs.
You can use a special pricking out tool to transplant the seedlings into bigger pots, but I just use a kitchen knife. Once the seedlings emerge and have their first true set of leaves (leaves that resemble the parent plant) you can prick them out.
First, make a small hole in the soil of the pot you wish to transfer the seedling to. Next, place the knife down beside the seedling and while gently holding their leaves, lift them out of the tray. Then place them into the new hole and firm the soil. At this stage, you may also wish to give them a seaweed fertiliser boost.
Planting out
When it is time to plant out, give the seedlings a good soak and then make sure they don’t dry out as they establish in the ground. If you move seedlings from a warm spot in a greenhouse or inside the house put them outside for a few days to a week, before transplanting. This will allow a ‘hardening off’ period and reduce transplant shock.
Some seeds are best directly sown onto the garden, such as carrots and radishes. Most bean and pea varieties can also be directly sown, although sometimes it is better to raise as seedlings to be sure they are strong once in the ground and able to resist rotting or slug damage.
Some seeds, for example carrots, can be tricky to grow because don’t cope with drying out. You can give them a helping hand by placing something like a shade cloth over the ground and removing it as soon as the seeds emerge.
Below are some examples of what we plant directdirectly, what we grow in trays and what we prick out into a second pot before planting out:
flowering bean organic gardens 